This rug was made to go next to a cot in a small nursery, so is quite small, however the pattern can be made bigger – just work more rows of increases before you start decreasing for the points. The craft cotton means that this is a sturdy rug, great for the floor, but equally great on a wall!
You will need…
6/8 balls of craft cotton (using 4 strands at a time. If you buy 6 balls you will need to split 2 of the balls in half to produce 4 strands)
10 mm hook
7 mm hook
These instructions use US crochet terminology and standard crochet abbreviations.
Special abbreviations –
- Starting dc 2 tog: ch 2, yo, insert hook into next stitch yo and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yo pull through remaining 2 loops.
- dc 2 tog: yo, insert hook into next stitch yo and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yo, insert hook into next stitch yo and pull up loop (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops, yo pull through remaining 3 loops.
Using 10 mm hook and working with 4 strands held together, ch 6, join into a ring.
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc, ch 3, *2 dc, ch 3; repeat from * 3 times more. Sl st to top of chain 3 to join. (10 dc and 5 ch3 spaces)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc, *(dc, ch3, dc) in ch space, 2 dc; rep from * 3 times more, (dc, ch, dc) in ch space, 1 dc, Sl st to top of chain 3 to join. (20 dc and 5 ch3 spaces)
Rows 3 – 8: Carry on the pattern as set working a dc into each stitch and working (dc, ch3, dc) in each chain space (80 dc and 5 ch3 spaces). Fasten off.
- Now you can work the star points in two ways. The easiest and quickest way is to work each point in rows turning your work and going backwards and forwards. The problem with this is that dc stitches in the round, which is what we’ve been doing so far look different from working a row from the front and then turning and working the next row from the back. It forms 2 row ridges. You may not mind this, but I thought it worth working each row from the front even though it means fastening off after each row. It didn’t take me that long to sew the ends in!
Row 9: Join yarn into top of 1st dc after chain space (see picture below); Work starting dc 2 tog (see special abbreviations above), dc 12, dc 2 tog. Fasten off.
Rows 10 to 13: Carry on pattern as set joining your yarn into top of the right increase from the previous row, and decreasing 1 st at each end.
- To finish the point it won’t be particularly noticeable if we work the last 3 rows in one, so –
Row 14: Join yarn into top of 1st dc after chain space (see picture below); Work starting dc 2 tog (see special abbreviations above), dc 2, dc 2 tog. Turn.
Row 15: Work starting dc 2 tog dc 2 tog. Turn.
Row 16: Work starting dc 2 tog. Fasten off.
Work the other 4 points in the same way. Weave in all ends.
- To edge the rug –
With 7 mm hook and 2 strands of craft cotton,
Join at the bottom right of a point and ch1; work 18 sc along the side of the point (this works out as a st at the base of each dc, and a st in the middle of each dc, finishing in the middle of the top dc; ch 3 to form the top, then starting in the middle of the top dc on the left of the point work 18 sc back down to the base.
2 sc in the ch 3 loop.
Repeat around working 18 sc up each point, 3 ch at the top, and 18 sc down each point with 2 sc in the chain loops in between finishing with a sl st into top of 1st sc. Fasten off and weave in all ends.