You will need…
Aran (worsted) weight yarn and a 5 mm hook.
A stitch marker, darning needle and scissors.
Some kind of ornament to use as a stand. It must have a sturdy base with a narrow stem and a top piece small enough to fit inside a 17 inch circumference amigurumi ball (with padding). I used a table card holder which was 11 inches tall – see below…
This pattern uses US crochet terminology and standard abbreviations. SEE PATTERN NOTES.
If you are not familiar with reading an amigurumi pattern you will work in a spiral, so at the end of your first round of 6 sc you will then place the next stitch directly above your starting sc (you don’t join with a slip stitch and then work above it as we usually work in rounds).
Using a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round will help you locate the end of each round when you get there! I wouldn’t attempt this pattern without one. (if you don’t have a stitch marker a piece of contrasting yarn tied around the stitch will do the same job)
Work a chain before your initial sc st in the magic circle.
Read the pattern through before starting your work.
I found this metal table card holder in my local discount store.
It is approx 11 inches tall and the top part is approx 3 inches wide. Perfect for this project and only a couple of pounds. Alternatively a candlestick might work.
1. Start by taking a wodge of stuffing and covering the top part of your ornament [fig. 1].
2. Using some yarn wrap all around the stuffing to compress it [fig. 2].
3. Add some more stuffing [fig. 3].
4. Continue wrapping yarn around the extra stuffing. Tie off your yarn and set stand aside [fig. 4].
5. With your cream yarn and a 5 mm hook make a magic circle.
6. 6 sc (6 sts)
7. 2 sc in each st (12 sts)
8. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc; rep from * around (18 sts)
9. *2 sc in next st, 2 sc; rep from * around (24 sts)
10. *2 sc in next st, 3 sc; rep from * around (30 sts)
11. *2 sc in next st, 4 sc; rep from * around (36 sts)
12. *2 sc in next st, 5 sc; rep from * around (42 sts)
13. *2 sc in next st, 6 sc; rep from * around (48 sts)
14. *2 sc in next st, 7 sc; rep from * around (54 sts)
15. *2 sc in next st, 8 sc; rep from * around (60 sts)
16. Work another 16 rows straight (working 1 sc into each st) (60 sts)
17. *sc2tog, 8 sc; rep from * around (54 sts)
18. *sc2tog, 7 sc; rep from * around (48 sts)
19. *sc2tog, 6 sc; rep from * around (42 sts)
20. *sc2tog, 5 sc; rep from * around (36 sts)
21. *sc2tog, 4 sc; rep from * around (30 sts)
22. *sc2tog, 3 sc; rep from * around (24 sts)
23. Bear in mind that you need to fit your stand so depending on it’s diameter you may need to insert it into your ball BEFORE this round for it to fit in the hole! For my stand it was fine to carry on until I had just 24 sts left. Pull up your working loop (so that it doesn’t unravel).
24. Sew up your starting magic circle.
25. Lightly stuff your ball. I put enough in so that it filled the ball, but it was only very lightly stuffed and loose [fig. 5].
26. Insert your stand ensuring there is a good covering of stuffing above it [fig. 6].
27. Add further stuffing around your stand until the ball is 17 inches in diameter. [fig. 7].
28. OK, this is fiddly, but with the ball end towards you tighten your working loop back on your hook and work sc2 tog around remaining sts. (12 sts)
29. Cut yarn leaving a long end and thread through a darning needle. [fig. 8]. Sew through each of the remaining 12 sts BUT DON’T TIGHTEN THEM YET.
This size of stand will fit hats from approx 6 months upwards, although you can easily adjust the size of the ball by doing extra/less increase/decrease rounds to fit different sized hats.
Hope you find this useful 🙂